Buying Firewood 101: How to Get What You Pay For (And Avoid Getting Burned)

There is perhaps no marketplace more akin to the Wild West than the local firewood market. You scroll through Craigslist or Marketplace, and you’re bombarded with terms like "rick," "face cord," "pickup load," and the ever-suspicious "seasonedish."

If you are a woodworker, you already know that wood moves, warps, and holds moisture. But when you are buying wood to burn, the rules change slightly—and the opportunity to get ripped off skyrockets. Whether you are heating your shop through the winter or just stocking the fire pit, you need to know exactly what you are buying.

Here is the no-nonsense guide to firewood measurements, moisture content, and how to spot a scam before you unload the truck.

The Golden Standard: The Cord

Let’s start with the only measurement that legally matters in many areas: the Cord. If a seller refuses to talk in terms of cords or fractions of a cord, keep your wallet in your pocket.

A standard full cord is a massive amount of wood. It is defined as a tightly stacked pile measuring 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long.

The Math: 4 x 4 x 8 = 128 cubic feet.

This includes the wood and the air gaps between the logs. If the wood is thrown loosely into a pile, it takes up more space (about 180 cubic feet) to equal the actual wood content of a stacked cord. If someone dumps a loose pile in your driveway and claims it's a cord because it looks big, get out your tape measure and start stacking.

The "Face Cord" and Other Ambiguous Units

This is where things get murky. You will often see listings for a "Face Cord."

A Face Cord is a stack of wood that is 4 feet high and 8 feet long, just like a full cord, but the depth is only the length of the log (usually 16 to 18 inches). Mathematically, a Face Cord is usually about one-third of a full cord.

Common "Units" Translated:

• Full Cord: 128 cubic feet (4' x 4' x 8'). The gold standard.
• Face Cord / Rick: 4' high x 8' long x [Log Length]. Usually 1/3 of a full cord.
• Truckload: A meaningless term. A standard 8-foot pickup bed, thrown loosely with wood, holds about half a cord if you are lucky. A 6-foot short bed holds even less. If they claim a pickup truck load is a full cord, they are lying or bad at math.

Pro Tip: Never buy by "weight" unless you are at a certified scale buying kiln-dried lumber. Wet wood is heavy. You don't want to pay extra for water you have to evaporate anyway.

Moisture Matters: Green vs. Seasoned

Buying the right amount is half the battle; buying wood that actually burns is the other half. Using wet (green) wood in your stove is dangerous—it causes creosote buildup (a chimney fire hazard) and wastes energy boiling off water instead of heating your shop.

1. Green Wood

This was a tree last week. It has a moisture content of 50% or higher. It is heavy, smells earthy, and will hiss and smoke if you try to burn it. Only buy this if you plan to stack it yourself for a year (or two, for oak) before using it.

2. "Seasoned" Wood

The term "seasoned" is unregulated. To a seller, it might mean "cut down three months ago." To a stove, it means under 20% moisture content. Properly seasoned wood is gray on the ends and often has "checking" (cracks radiating from the center of the log).

3. Kiln-Dried

The premium option. This wood has been baked to remove moisture and kill bugs. It’s expensive, but it burns hot and clean immediately. If you are bringing wood into a pristine workshop, kiln-dried minimizes the risk of introducing powderpost beetles or ants.

How to Verify Dryness (Don't Guess)

You’re a woodworker. You measure things. Don't rely on the seller's promise.

The Sound Test

Take two pieces of firewood and bang them together.

• Dull Thud: The wood is wet/green.
• Sharp "Clink" or Ring: The wood is dry.

 

The Soap Test

If you can access the end grain, put a little dish soap on one end and blow hard into the other end. If bubbles form, air is passing through the capillaries, meaning the water is gone. (Okay, this is fun, but maybe not practical in a stranger's driveway).

The Moisture Meter (The Right Way)

If you own a moisture meter for your lumber—and you should—bring it. But here is the trick: Do not measure the ends. The ends dry out first. Split a log in half and measure the freshly exposed grain in the center. If it reads over 20%, it is not ready to burn tonight.

Red Flags When Buying

• "Semi-Seasoned": This is marketing speak for "wet." It’s like being "semi-pregnant." It’s either ready to burn, or it isn’t.
• Refusal to Stack: If a seller delivers and won't let you stack it (or wait for you to measure it) before paying, be wary.
• The "Cross-Stack" Scam: If buying a pre-stacked pile, look for "Lincoln Log" stacking with massive air gaps between layers. You’re paying for air, not maple.

Summary

Sourcing firewood requires the same scrutiny as buying lumber for a fine furniture project. Know your dimensions, check the moisture content, and trust your tools over the seller's word. A little diligence now saves you from a smoky shop and a cold winter later.

Stay warm, stay safe, and keep making sawdust.